We went from the small townships of Fox Glacier and Franz Joseph to the smaller roadside community of Punakaiki on November 23rd for a few days. Punakaiki is famous for the odd "pancake rocks" that have formed from the limestone cliffs that are positioned right on the edge of the raucous Tasman Sea. These sedimentary rocks were once under water and are actually comprised of mudstone and limestone...as rain and waves have been wearing away at the cliffs, the mudstone has been eroding faster than the limestone, resulting in the remaining rocks to resemble stacked flapjacks. All of this erosion and active geological activity has also created numerous "blowholes" and underground caves throughout the Punakaiki formations, which results in streams of water being shot up into the air at various points around the cliffs. Why isn't this a wonder of the world?! While we didn't necessarily need to stay overnight in this micro community, we had fun exploring the town, patronizing the lone coffeeshop four times in less than 48 hours, and hiking the cliffs in the area.
"You May Find Yourself / Chillin' in a Limestone Cliff" - Talking Heads
Mad Scientist Alberto, Summoning the Power of the Tasman Sea
We also wanted to note that the majority of all travelers here in New Zealand are German. While there were lots of Canadians in the UK, and lots of Aussies and Brits in SE Asia, the Germans are dominating the NZ backpacker scene. Whenever we enter a new hostel or get on a bus we point at people and play "German, Or No German".
Now for our NZ beer review. For such a small country, they sure have a thriving craft beer industry. In addition, many of the breweries are here on the South Island.
Invercargill - We tried the Stanley Green Pale and the Wasp Honey Pilsner. A small family business, with brewers that love experimenting with hops.
Monteiths - The Okanagan Springs of New Zealand...a brewery with craft roots that has expanded and can now be found in almost every bar here. We hated their Radler, but their Celtic Red is wonderful and drinkable.
Tui - The national beer of New Zealand and incorrectly described as an IPA. This ruby red, low alcohol (4%) amber ale is cheap and flavourful. I wish Molson Canadian tasted like this!
Steinlager - Another one of the country's big breweries and a primary sponsor of the All Blacks. Extremely average lager, similar to Kokanee or Tiger.
Speights - Proudly southern and small, this Dunedin-based brewery produces beer that is light and hoppy. Even their Distinction Ale and Stout contain a bit too much of a citrusy finish, but their Gold Medal Ale is refreshing and loved by all Kiwis. We drank at the brewery's taproom!
MOA - An expensive, boutique brewery based here in the south that bottles brews with names such as noir (chocolate porter) and breakfast (raspberry wheat). Great, but pricy. Only available in bottle.
Hooray for beer! And hooray for NZ's certified organic hops!
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